Sunday, April 24, 2016

Day 8 - Back to the USA

It's sad to leave these 16 wonderful people, plus our two guides and driver.
I'm going to name some of them here, mostly for my own benefit so I won't forget them.

Luanna and Dave #1 are building a cabin on Lake Sacajawea in North Dakota.  They talk funny.
Tom and Donna from Bemidji Minnesota.  Donna and I both stayed at Fulton Hall at UND  (20 years apart). Tom talks funny, too.  Donna doesn't.  How come?
Patricia and Dave#2 -  Sweet Patricia loves Rilke's poetry (yes!) and Dave loves baseball and spent summers in Laramie as a boy.

Here are the Mississipians:
Nancy and Drew -I liked Drew's jokes
Gloria and T - They spend summers in Chama, NM
Lauran and Dean -  Lauran was one of my favorites!  I hope her vision improves.  Dean and T are brothers.
Watch-your-step Bailey - our dear chef!  Always funny and probably great at trivial pursuit.
Dave #3 - Spanish teacher at Mississippi State.  Sweet fellow, wants to switch to computer science.
Linda #1 - always smiling!  Even when having trouble walking downhill!  And always beautifully dressed.
Diane - I loved talking with her.  Smart, kind, political in a good way.

I did my best to make the Mississppi dames look good.  My dowdy, inappropriate clothes made their pretty outfits look even better.  We won't even talk about hair.  They told me in the beginning that it's always important to a southern woman to be beautifully dressed and coifed.  But I discovered they were as smart as they were pretty.  And also very kind.  I came away with a great respect for Southerners!

As for the trip - wow!  It was one-of-a-kind-fantastic!  I learned so much and saw so many very beautiful and very ugly things.  I want to take Fidel and shake him for what he has done to these lovely people (are you reading this, Fidel?).

Day 7 - Las Terrazas and Fusterland.

Best day for last!
We drove an hour west of Havana to Las Terrazas (The Terraces).  This is a Unesco Biosphere Reserve where land totally denuded by coffee farming was reforested into a beautiful nature reserve.  As brown and dry as the land was yesterday, this area is green and lush.  There is hiking, bird watching, even a zip line! We didn't go zip lining --good thing, given my reputation as a loco on the line!

There is a small village in the biosphere with an art community, woodwork and pottery workshops.  We visited the local school and met some grade schoolers.  Also visited the medical center which seemed pretty primitive.  It does seem they do some preventive medicine and vaccinations but need supplies and medicines.

We had coffee and tea in their Cafe Maria.  As usual, we were offered rum for our drinks--even though it was 9 am!  Later we had lunch at a local farmhouse--served family style.  Pork, chicken, beans and rice .  (No fish)

Lonely Planet lists the terraces as one of the top sites in Cuba.  I agree!

Our next stop was even more exciting!  It was the home of Jose Fuster:  Fusterlandia. He is an artist who turned his entire home and 50 homes in his neighborhood into one big ceramic work of art.  I'm totally unable to describe it so you'll have to google Fusterlandia.  And that won't nearly do it justice.

At 5:30, 4 vintage cars picked us up at the hotel to take us to dinner.  Gloria, Turner, G and I ordered a blue one.  It turned out to be a '56 Bel Aire Chevy.  Neat!  The other three were pink, yellow and red.  Convertibles all.  We raced down the Malecon with our driver Joa (sp?). He was very proud of his car.  We stopped off at the fort across the river for a spectacular view of the city and then on to a special end to the evening at the Paladar Casa Miglis where we had a private room complete with a stage for our own band and two dancers.  It was one of the best bands all week.  The dancers were great and worked up a sweat so I loaned the girl my little portable fan from Walmart.  We ended by everybody dancing with them (even me!).

Day 6 - Sancti Spritus to Havana with stops at "Che" and Santa Clara

We started the day with a stop at the Sancti Spiritus farmers market amid piles of animal parts including pig heads and tails.  Actually, most of the meat looked good but it was arranged on tables with no refrigeration.  Maybe that's ok.  I don't know.  There weren't many vegetables.  One old fellow bought a huge pile of fat--must have been a foot high.

We started our 4 hour drive to Havana but got stuck behind a bike race or tour or something which slowed us to a crawl for quite a while.  Thea was furious!  I was sure she was going to get off the bus and chew them all out!  There is so little traffic on the roads that they are not used to any delays.  There are a lot of vintage cars in Havana used as taxis, but in the countryside almost all you see are tour buses, trucks and local buses which are small trucks with open backs for passengers to sit in two benches along the sides.  Gas is just too expensive for Cubans to afford.  They either ride a bus, bike or horse.

We saw quite a few oxen used to pull plows in the fields.  There were a few very decrepit tractors.  Cuba is having a severe drought in the central part of the state so most of the land was barren.  There was a bit of irrigation in places.  Crops I recognized:  corn, rice, sugar cane, tomatoes. Lots of skinny cattle.

I can't begin to tell you how sad the homes looked all through this rural area.  They were more like hovels than homes--just one small flat-roofed room with a porch on the front with space for two chairs.  It is truly a third world country.

We stopped to visit the Che Guevarra museum and mausoleum.  No, Paul, he is not on view like Lenin.  But it's an impressive memorial.  An imposing statue of Che on a huge pedestal rises above the building -- like a god.  Which seems to be how the Cubans view him.  You see his picture all over, more than Fidel and Raoul.  Our Cuban guide had only good things to say about him--nothing about beingFidel's chief executioner or the slave labor camps he ran -- or the hatred he felt for the US.  They seem to be critical of Fidel now, but Che is a hero.

We had a great buffet lunch in Santa Clara at the Los Caneyes Hotel.  There were vegetables galore!

G and I skipped supper when we got back to Havana.  We've been eating too much.  We walked along the Malecon (road alongside the ocean) instead.  It's a popular place for people to sit, talk, fish, listen to small bands wanting to make a few CUC's, sleep, whatever.  We talked to a young man who said he's a sports teacher in junior high.  He said life is hard for teachers, doctors, carpenters, and engineers.  Their salaries are fixed-- and low.  To make money in Cuba you have to work in the tourist resorts or in music or art.  I might have added restroom ladies.  We were sympathizing with him and then he asked us to help him out --about 20 CUCs worth.  So now we aren't sure he's a teacher--maybe just a beggar.  Sad

Being here is like being in an unfolding drama.

Day 5 - Sancti Spiritus and Trinidad

After breakfast in Sancti Spiritus we drove about 45 minutes to Trinidad.  Trinidad was founded in 1514 by Velasquez.  They've seen it all in those 500 years -- pirates, wealthy sugar barons, slave trade -- then later poverty and isolation.  Now Trinidad is reviving and has been named a World Heritage site.

The streets are paved with river stones (hard to walk on!).  The houses have brightly painted adobe walls with wooden shutters.  Many houses have wicker birdcages hanging in the windows.  The birds serenade you as you walk along.  Charming city!

Just off the main square is a huge 30 foot wide staircase with a patio at the top.  G and I had a beer (Bucanero or Cristal -- there are only two choices wherever we go) and listened to the local band.  This particular one consisted of sax, trumpet, guitar, bongo drums, bass, maracas and various percussion instruments.  This is my favorite part of Cuba--great music everywhere.  They often involve members of the audience.  This time they had Dave playing the maracas.

We visited a pottery shop where Thea arranged a demonstration for us.  She is an amazing guide.  G says she's the best we've ever had.  Also visited the Templo de Yemaya where a high priest explained the Santeria religion to us.  Santeria seems to be a combination of African, Catholic and animalistic religions.  We were interested in hearing about the animal sacrifices practiced, but the priest didn't go into that--and we've been instructed not to make waves.  Perhaps he left that part out because one of our group made chicken noises as we came in the room.

We had lunch at Paladar Sol-Ananda.  No need to tell you the menu.

After lunch we wandered around the Artisans Market.  it was much nicer than the one in Havana --no hard sells and nicer goods. We visited the Architecture Museum and spent the rest of the afternoon  at the beach.  G and I just waded in the lovely warm water but some of our group swam.  Nice sand, nice resort, lovely lovely day.

Dinner at Paladar El 19 in Sancti Spiritus.  The "19" was for some baseball player.  We actually had a variation in the menu! They served us a variety of tasters including shrimp and beef, in addition to the usual fish, chicken and pork.



Thursday, April 21, 2016

Day 4 Cienfuegos and Sancti Spiritus

We drove four hours to Cienfuegos, a port on the south coast.  We have a large bus for the 18 of us, plus Thea, Osmin and driver, Miguel.  We had two seats each so it was very comfy.

In Cienfuegos we toured an old colonial theatre and then had a lovely lunch at Paladar Villa Lagarto overlooking the Bay of Cienfuegos.  As usual we had rice and beans and a choice of chicken, fish or pork.  We always get a cocktail first and then beer or water with the meal.  There are only two beers to choose from:  Bucanero or Cristal.  They are ok, nothing special.

After lunch we had a superb concert by a group called Las Cuevas at a cultural center (I think).  There were 4 or 5 guitars--very talented.  They played some classical music and some Cuban. Followed by dancing by our group (not me!)

We drove on to Sancti Spiritus, a bit to the east, where we spent two nights.  It's a lovely historic town with splendid colonial architecture.  We stayed at Hotel Plaza, a colorful old place with arches, lots of potted plants, a central patio with two jacuzzis.  Our room was quaint with 12 foot high doors, stained glass transoms and lovely old wooden furniture. The shower water was a bit chilly but you can't have everything.  That's been our creed in Cuba.  Especially when it comes to bathrooms.

Sometimes the restrooms have toilet paper, sometimes not.  Sometimes they flush, sometimes not.  We went to one with no toilet paper, no toilet seat, no water in the sink, no towels.  Guess we didn't need towels if there was no water.  In one restroom the toilets didn't flush but the restroom lady came in with a pail of water and performed that function.  In places where there are restroom ladies they furnish you with a few squares of toilet paper for which you are expected to pay around 25 cents.  It's sometimes hard to get small coins as all purchases are in dollar amounts so there is no change.  Therefor you end up giving them $1 (actually the Cuban CUC). When a couple buses of Canadians come in they might make $50 in a half hour.  I figure they are the highest paid workers in Cuba!

Oh, I forgot to mention.  Often the toilets won't handle toilet paper so you put your used paper in the wastebasket instead of the toilet.  Aren't you glad you read this blog!

We had supper at Paladar El Yayabo.  Can't remember it but I'm sure they offered rice, beans, fish, chicken and pork.

Before bed we toured a small grocery store in the neighborhood.  Not much variety--piles and piles of eggs on the floor.  Shouldn't they be refrigerated?


Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Day 3 cigars, art and music

I'm going to speedblog while the wifi is working.
Today we went to a cigar factory where they read books to the workers to keep them from getting bored (news in the morning, romance novels in the afternoon)
Then on to a really great art museum.  Could have stayed longer.  Rachel, you would have loved it!

Before lunch we toured Cojimar where Heminway hung out with the fishermen.  After he died the fishermen had a statue of him made out of their bronze propellers.
Lunch was at Paladar El Ajiaco--lovely setting, good fish, chicken , rice and beans.  The mohito had honey instead of sugar.  Rice pudding for dessert.  G and I were late back to the bus.  We are sorry, Thea!!

We visited an organic farm where they "discovered" organic gardening during their "special" period after the Soviets dumped them and they couldn't afford insecticide or fertilizer.  They still have shortages of supplies and our guide said she really would like a Home Depot to shop st.

We stopped at a market to shop a bit before returning to the hotel and have a rest before our big night out.  We will take vintage cars to dinner in Old Havana and then go to a performance of the Buena Vista Social Club at 9 pm.  Home at 11.  Long day!

P.S.  We didn't manage to get the vintage cars after all.  We will rent them Saturday night instead.  In lieu of those, we rented Cocos which are little yellow three wheeled cars shaped like coconuts.  They each hold two passengers so we had 9 Cocos all racing down the Malecon, paying no attention to lanes, trucks, or safety.  It was nuts!!!

Monday, April 18, 2016

Day 2--Havana cemetery and Hemingway house

We started the day at the Christopher Columbus cemetery, which did not include Columbus's remains, by the way.  Our guide was totally hilarious so it was the most delightful cemetery tour I've ever been on.

Next we visited a film institute where we saw how cartoons are made and also saw some excellent short films.  While there we got to experience the typical public toilets--no toilet paper or soap or towels.  Since we had been warned about this, we were prepared with toilet paper in our purses, some hand sanitizer and the quick wipe of the hands on our pant legs. No prob.

Then it was on to the University of Havana.  G and I tried hard not to be late so we wouldn't get chided by Thea.  She runs a tight ship.  The university campus and buildings are beautiful! None of the dirty, run down stuff like the rest of Havana.  We got a tour from one of the students.  He said you don't necessarily get to study what you want.  The government decides which fields are needed by the  society in the next 5 years, and that quota must be met.  The students looked a lot like US kids.  Some of them talking on cell phones, but not too many.

We had roast chicken at El Aljibe Restaurant -- great roast chicken and excellent band!

80 degrees today, beautiful blue skies, cool breeze -- 100% perfect day!  Since it was so beautiful we decided to go to Hemingway's house a day early.  It is located a half hour from Havana, on a hill overlooking the city.  He left in 1960, went home to Idaho snd commited suicide.  The house has been kept just the way he left it--all his books, typewriter, stuffed animal heads, dishes on the table, etc.  Only thing missing are his 54 cats.  His boat, the Pilar, is there, also.  It is a gorgeous spot, many acres of palm trees, patios, swimming pool, etc.  You almost expect Ava Gardner to step out of the pool and join Ernest for a Daquiri on the porch.

Somewhere today we also fit in a visit to a large galleria and a talk with an economics professor at our hotel.  Supper tonight is a short walk away at a paladar and then walk along the shore.

Told you we would be busy!



Sunday, April 17, 2016

Day 1 From Miami to Havana

Cuba is located 90 miles south of Florida.  We started out at 6:20 and didn't get to Havana until noon. Things move a little slower here--Caribbean  time.  Our plane was half full of Cubans who had been to the US to see relatives and to shop.  They return to Cuba with huge bundles that have been wrapped in blue plastic.  It's like giant Saran Wrap.  There were bikes wrapped in plastic--tvs--you name it.

Our Cuban guide, Thea, met us at the airport and took us to the Plaza de la Revolution.  The government buildings surround the Plaza.  We were warned not to go near the Security building.  We didn't.  But G and I did wander a bit too far and were late getting back to the bus.  Thea doesn't like it when people are late.

Then we went to Paladar 3 Monedas for lunch.  Paladars are small private restaurants, sometimes in people's homes.  They are taxed by the government.  Before private businesses like paladars were allowed, there were no taxes in Cuba.  If you have a beef with income tax, you would probably have been very happy in Cuba 10 years ago.  Or not.  Our lunch was good.  We started with a mohito, then had chicken and rice, beans and Cuban beer called Bucanero.  There was flan for dessert.  The building was old and quaint.

We wandered around Old Havana near the Plaza de Armas, Plaza de la Catedral and the Used Booksellers Market.  There were many beautiful, colorful buildings and even more buildings which are old, dirty, falling down.  There is a lot of restoration going on but Thea says it is slow.  Unlike most old beautiful cities that turn into artificial tourist centers, Havana is still very much lived in by the Cubans.  It is fascinating to see.

We talked to a Cuban/American going to Havana to visit his mother.  He said Havana is very safe to walk around in--even at night.  He said the Cubans know better than to commit violent crimes because punishment in the prisons is so harsh.

We were going to walk along the Malecon in the evening but it started to rain.

Oh yes, about the weather--I've been moaning for weeks about how hot it was going to be.  Today was perfect!  It was 82 but the breeze was pretty brisk so it felt even cooler.  It was cloudy all day which also made it feel cool.

We were late for supper (Thea is not pleased with us). Great buffet supper with great company.  Love these Southerners! And the NDers too!  It's going to be a great week.

Our room is huge and beautiful!  Giant windows  20 feet long looking out at the sea.  There is a bidet.

I left my nightgown in Miami.

Saturday, April 16, 2016

Day 0 - meeting in Miami

We had a rough start to our trip to Cuba.  We drove to DIA at 4am in a heavy rain/snow mix.  The airport was practically deserted as 70% (at least) of the flights had been cancelled.  Miraculously our flight was one of the few going out.  It took a long time to de-ice, but we made it to our 7pm meeting in Miami with 10 minutes to spare.

We met the other 16 people of our group at the orientation meeting.  There are two other couples from UND.  Most of the others are from Mississippi.  We six alumni were surprised there weren't more adventurous Sioux graduates.  Luanna and Dave are from Hazen, ND.  Donna and Tom are from Bemidji, MN.

 So, how will this work -- 6 reserved North Dakotans/Minnesotans and 12 gregarious Southerners?
Will they get tired of trying to bring us out of our shells?  Will we get tired of them talking non stop?  Stay tuned.


Friday, April 15, 2016

CUBA - blog test

G is setting up this blog for me, but who knows if it will work once we get to Cuba.  We hear that wifi connections are spotty and expensive.  We'll see.